Sunday, July 13, 2014

South Shore Coastal Trail


View from trail to Toleak Beach Shelter


We are still hoping to through hike most of Oregon on the PCT this August.  We are going on longer backpacking trips every week until then.  This trip was only a couple of miles longer than the last one, but the terrain was tougher.  We hiked 22 miles on sand while climbing up and down headlands clinging onto little ropes and half rotten ladders.  This was quite an adventure.



We should have rode the bus to our hike but planning for that seemed too complicated, so the plan instead was to drive to the ocean and back without out using the brakes too much.  My car needs new brakes and an alignment.  I can’t really afford either of those things without taking money out of savings.  I sure wish I could make some money or get some gear donations with this blog, but that's not why I started blogging.

We drove to La Push via the Hood Canal and Port Angeles.  We arrived at the trail head at 4pm and began our hike.  We were lucky to get a spot that was almost on top of the trail.  The hike starts with a 1.5 mile mostly downhill trek to third beach.  I had a heavy load for this trip, since all food has to be in a bear can I had to carry all of the food and the freaking bear can weights almost three pounds when empty.

We are in training so I put extra water in my daughter’s pack to give her something heavy to carry. Also we had to filter water on the beach, so it was nice to arrive at camp with lots of fresh tap water. 

As we hiked down to third beach on a Tuesday we witnessed may people hiking back out.  Some had huge heavy loads; one person was pulling a cooler behind him. 
heavy load
Heavy Load

The beach!  Time to swim.

When we reached the beach we turned south and after a bit we began to look for the trail over the headland at Taylor Bluff.  We were led astray by a different trail when we saw other hikers attempting to go up it, but we turned back and found the correct route.  We never did see those other hikers again and wonder what happened to them.

On the wrong trail

 
We hiked four miles to Scott’s bluff and found the first campsite to be full.  Two women were camped on the beach with two teen age girls; one of the women showed me where the good campsites off the beach were.  Since my daughter kicks up a lot of dirt, I did not want to camp in the sand with her.  I don’t know why, but whenever I arrive at my campsite for the night I’m a bit disoriented, maybe I’m just tired after giving it my all.

our campsite at Scott's bluff


This did not seal
again after the first time
After a dinner of rehydrated split pea soup and chips we went down to Scott’s creek and filtered our water for breakfast.  I bought a full sized Sawyer squeeze filter for this trip even though I own two of the minis.  I liked the full sized squeeze better. It has a faster flow rate and a push pull cap.  We will only need one full sized filter between the two of us.  At first it mated perfectly with my platypus, but later I could not get it to screw onto my platypus properly.  I will have to get a tube for my platypus and an inline kit for my sawyer. 

My platypus tube broke years ago and all I have is the bag.
 

I slept pretty well that frist night, I only woke up about twenty times, that's  better than I usually sleep on my first night of camping.  My daughter got covered in sand and suffered from some chaffing by morning.  I treated it as best as I could with sun screen.

Sphagnum squarrosum
Our goal for day two was a 7 mile hike to Mosquito creek.  We knew it would be a challenge to make it so far but as they say no pain, no gain. 

There was a long headland trail that lead to Mosquito Creek and on all the headland trails I found interesting bryophytes.


Pellia

Goodman Creek on the overland trail
Not too much mud this time of year


We made it to Mosquito creek at about 6 pm.  I could only find campsites on the beach but there was a group of three men camped nearby and they told me that there were campsites in the woods above the creek.  So after dinner on the beach we headed up the bluff and found several very nice campsites to choose from.  It was just breezy enough up on the bluff to keep the mosquitoes away too.  Dinner was rice with vegetables and hamburger.

The men camped on the beach looked to be in a precarious position, wedged between the river bank and the ocean bank and with the tide coming in fast.  The tide was going to be a 9 foot tide, while the tide the night before was only 6 feet.  Would the men have waves wash over their tent?  We sat up on the bluff and watched to see what would happen.  Nothing happened, the water stopped 20 feet short of their tents.
Campsite at Mosquito Creek
Sunset at Mosquito Creek

Full moon at Mosquito Creek

This came in on the tide overnight at Mosquito Creek
My daughter lost her mp3 player at Mosquito Creek, I sure hope we can get it back.

The next morning we re-crossed Mosquito creek and headed back towards Scott’s Bluff, but my daughter had found a campsite that she really liked in front of what I had dubbed wizard rock the day before.  So we opted to look for that campsite. 

 It turned out that the site was on Toleak point, an area I had decided to avoid because it might be crowded, but it was fine on a Thursday night.  Something told me that this area had a lot of Native American history to it, I could just feel it, or maybe I could see it in the lay of the land.

My daughter wanted to sleep in a hammock and I told her it was okay but she changed her mind as soon as it got dark.  I slept pretty well at Toleak.

Camp at Toleak


Sunset at Toleak

Sunset at Toleak

Sunset at Toleak

My daughter lost her camera at Toleak, I sure hope we can get it back. It is a red water proof pentax point and shoot.  It was her Christmas present and I can not afford to replace it.

The next day we hiked back out to our car.  On a clay bank, but not on a rope or a ladder I fell and landed on my butt and the palms of my hands.  As I fell I felt a shooting pain go down my leg almost like I had hit my funny bone, but I don't think there is a funny bone in the leg.  I think I pulled a muscle in my thigh.   It felt like the kind of injury that needed to be walked off, so I kept on walking, but in pain.  Every big upward step hurt.  In time though and as the trail leveled out the pain subsided.  Now the next day there is only a little bit of soreness.
When we got to the trail head the parking was packed and people were starting to park up and down the highway.  As soon as we pulled out someone grabbed our parking spot.  We were glad to be leaving on a Friday rather than arriving.
Everyone we saw on the trail had bigger packs and loads than we did, but still I wish I had been able to carry less weight for this hike.  By the last day the food was gone but I still had that stupid 3 pound bear can to deal with.  I was able to fit my bear can, tent and sleeping bag all into my pack on the last day by shoving all of my clothes into my empty bear can.

As I pulled out a I saw a bus go by.. damn, we could have a caught a bus to the trail head!  On the way home my car’s brakes started to squeal and the next morning I had a flat tire. My car is going nowhere until the brakes are fixed.
This was a fun adventure; I hope my daughter looks back on it with fond memories.
We had great weather for the entire trip and we only got a little bit sunburned.
Most of the Japanese tsnami debris has been cleaned up.

22 miles with some ups and downs I'll call it 500 feet but it was probably a little bit more.

After I got home I found out that my mother was in the ICU again and she did not tell me.  "Same song, second verse" said the doctor.  I feel like there is nothing I can do to help her and the grieving process needs to begin.
 



I turned my cup upside down to keep mice from pooping in it
but when I turne it back over I found a baby bananna slug pooping in it.
Jellyfish

a dog in ONP?

Sand sea stacks

crab tracks

sea side fern

seaside fern


Oyster mushroom on the way to third beach


Same Oyster mushrooms on the trip back, nobody picked them.
I hardly ever pick oyster mushrooms myself, they are too bland and full of hopping bugs.
 

New PCT plan


This is my current plant for our Oregon PCT though hike.  I've decided to lower our stress level by staring at Crater lake.  This gives us extra time to get into shape and helps us to avoid the long waterless stretches at the start of Oregon.


1 start with six days food at Crater Lake


Mail  6 days food to Shelter Cover to get us to sisters  ETA 8-11-14
Please send your box via UPS to Shelter Cove Resort at 27600 W. Odell Lake Rd. Hwy 58 Crescent OR 97733. Please put your name and ETA on all sides of your box. Have a great hike and hope to see you soon!

1989.5  Mackenzie or 2007 Santiam
Sisters to Olallie lake meal at BLYC (2001.3)  4.9 days

 

Buy / Mail 5-6 days food in Sisters or Bend to get us to Olallie
2053 Olallie to Timberline 4 days

 
Buy 4 days food at Olallie pack in as much as possible from sisters
2107.3Timberline to Cascade locks (two days food is waiting for us there!)
 

Mail  4 days food to Timberline eat buffet  8-28-14
USPS only:  C/o Timberline ski area, Wy’East Store, Timberline, OR 97028
2155 Cascade locks
EAT ALL THE FOOD

 

Thursday, July 3, 2014

North Fork Skokomish to 9 stream

North fork Skokomish to 9 stream
Bat at Slide Camp
 
We went backpacking in Olympic National Park for a change. Olympic National Park is a vast area that has been set aside just for the enjoyment of folks who have the means to afford the entrance and camping fees.
I was hoping to get an annual backpacking pass but no dice, they don't sell them at Staircase, and so I had to pay the nightly fee instead. I was not too happy about that. But, if I catch the bus next time instead of driving, that will make up for the extra cost.
We started on the four stream trail and somehow I missed the bridge, I did not see the arrow on the sign... hmmmm we back tracked to the bridge and all was well. Just before camp we crossed paths with a ranger. She was a youngish woman, she was polite and efficient and the encounter was pleasant.  She asked to see my permit.
My daughter was dragging at first, then I gave her an mp3 player and I could not keep up with her!  Then the battery went dead.  I need to get a solar charger so she can always have music.
We hiked into Big Log camp. I wanted to show my daughter the hollow tree there, but first I had to find it, it had been chopped down! Oh no! But wait, I was on the wrong path. I just did not recognize the place without a blanket of snow. The big cedar is still there and my daughter wanted to sleep in it.
 
I wanted to sleep in the tree too but, I pitched the tarp tent because I also wanted to sleep without being eaten alive by mosquitoes. In the evening I discovered that there is a water fall at big log camp. I think maybe the water level of the creek is too high for waterfall viewing in the winter.
The next morning we packed up and left camp at about 9am with nine stream as our goal. As a day hiker, I've never been past camp Pleasant, so I was looking forward to seeing new areas. I was not disappointed; the area after camp pleasant was very nice, probably nicer than anything before the bridge over the Skokomish at the start of the six ridge trail.
When we reached nine steam it was very hot and we were tired and we wanted to swim, but a big man with a big knife came running up to us and asked us where we were going. This frightened me. What was with this guy?

We found a very poor campsite at nine stream and we waited there hoping that the guy was just lunching there and would move along soon so we could take the spot he was in. But no, he was there for the duration and he began to pitch his tent.
Crossing 9 stream on the scary bridge
 
So we went up the trail a bit and we were trying to decide what campsite to take, none of them were perfect. Only one was on the water and it was too hot and sunny there, we would be sure to get sun burned in that site. There was a very nice site away from the water, but my daughter had lost her water bottle so we only had the capacity carry one quart of water, not enough to even cook dinner with.
We were still deciding where to camp when the same ranger we saw the day before showed up with my daughter's water bottle in her hand. She had found the bottle and was going to haul it out. The day before she found my daughter's deet and had already hauled it out. With two water bottles the decision to take the camp away from the river was easy.
Couple from Chicago
That evening we met the man with the huge knife and found out that he was okay, he was just a noob who never thought it might be alarming for a lone women with a child to be approached in such a way ten miles from a trailhead.

He had never been backpacking before, so he brought canned chili, bear spray,  a big knife and probably a bunch of other silly stuff "just in case". Okay, okay, sometimes I pack bear spray too, but it's not for the bears..
That night we sat at the campfire with the noob and with a couple who had flown in from Chicago just to hike at ONP on their 3 year wedding anniversary.  Must be nice!  We yogied some TP off off the nice couple from Chigaco in the morning.

I did not sleep very well, my duaghter kept rolling over onto me an in the night and waking me up.
The next morning  we hiked out at about 9am and soon the couple from Chicago passed us. We were tired so we stopped and took a 5 hour lunch break at Camp Pleasant. Then at about 4pm we packed up and hiked in to Spike camp, but Spike camp was just awful with mosquitoes and no pretty water source. We also checked out the campsites near Madeline creek before we checked out Spike camp and found them to be very poor.
On the way to spike camp we ran into an older couple who were headed for big log. The man so was overloaded with stuff that he could not stand up straight. He wanted to know if I had been to Flap Jack lakes and if the way was steep. I told him that yes it was steep and he looked to be a bit overloaded for the hike.   I suggested he do a day hike to the lakes.  He suggested that we camp at Slide camp rather than Spike camp.
Exhausted, we stumbled onward and finally found slide camp and the best campsite ever. Such a pretty campsite! I had never set foot in slide camp before because it's too close to the trail head for me to want to bother with it.  We had it all to ourselves, it was probably the best night of our trip.  I slept well and the campsite was so pretty and we go to eat all the food.
We saw a flock of bats at bed time and there were ducks on the water.  On the way out at about ten the next morning we saw the same ranger heading in without a pack but with a pick axe.    We told her that my daughter had now lost her water bottle cap.
I’m really happy with our ULA packs.  At first I thought my circuit was not big enough for the job, but I think it will be okay as long as I carry the tarp tent in the outside pocket.  Since I am cooking for two my cook pot is a bit bulky, so the tent has to go on the outside. 

On this trip I carried all the breakfast and dinner and my daughter carried all the lunch stuff.

My base packweight is around 15 pounds.  New foods we tried that worked out well, boxed sweet potatoe soup 2 for a buck  from the expired food store.  I  dehydrated the soup and then we had it with rice noodles.  We also packed a big bag of chips.  One dinner was a no cook meal of home made dehydrated split pea soup that we dipped corn chips into.  It was VERY filling.
I planned the food perfectly and we had no food at all by the time we hiked back to the car.   I’ll pack more food next time.

I'd like to get the dial-a-ride to drop us off at the South Fork Skok and pick us up a the North Fork Skok so I can do a loop.
19 miles with 1,300 feet elevation gain
 
Things my daughter lost in this trip:
Deet
Water bottle
Water bottle cap
Empty nutella jar
 
Highlights of the trip:
Bats at slide camp
Cool breeze at Eight Stream Bridge
Camp Pleasant
Slime molds
Nutella
 
Low points of the trip:
Knife wielding maniac (an exaggeration)
Mosquitoes
Deerflies
Dirt
Camping fees
 
Things I wish I had brought with me:
Mosquito head nets
A cotton cloth
Hand lens
More TP
More Coffee
More wine
Big heavy horrible camera that takes great pictures
Silnylon water bladder for dry camps
My inflatable sleeping pad
 
Things I will leave behind next time:
Big heavy horrible camera that takes great pictures
One of my extra shirts
One of my daughters extra coats
 
A Japanese painting showing a misty mountain with trees on it

Slime mold on the prowl at night


Butterfree palace before Camp Pleasant


Big banana slug and baby banans slug 
with Ryidiadelphus loreus moss


Camp Pleasant

Ripe berries between Camp Pleasant and Nine Stream


Dinner at nine steam was two boxed of dehydrated sweet
potato soup with rice noodles and two tablespoons
of veggie oil.  I forgot to pack the meat but it tasted
great anway!

The Skok near nine stream, I really need my
big camera for these kinds of shots

Our campsite at nine stream

8 stream, we ate tortillas with nutella on them both times we crossed
as there was a nice cool breeze here, it was a pleasant place to stop


Lunch at Camp pleasant with tent caterpillars

View at Slide Camp

Moon rise and sunset at Slide Camp

Slide camp

Slide camp bat

Our tarp at Slide camp